Once the soil temperature warms up above 45°, the lawn awakens to a vibrant shade of green, signaling its readiness to metabolize fertilizer. Opting for an organic-based fertilizer not only nourishes the grass and soil microbes, but also facilitates the ongoing breakdown of organic matter. Post-fertilization, each grass plant can expand in all directions by up to 3", and any small bare spots smaller than 6" in diameter will naturally fill in within 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, if there are still any bare areas, proceed to Step #2.

Create a thicker lawn by applying seed now. Use the correct variety based on the amount of sun shining on each area. 5-6 hours of sun requires a "Full-Sun" mixture. 2-3 hours of sun requires a Shady mixture. Less than 2 hours of sun requires an "Extreme Dense Shade" mixture. Be sure to water the lawn daily for 28 days while the seed germinates and establishes roots.

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Lawns in our area need 1" of rain per week when the air temperature is  75°or cooler. For every 10° above 75°, they need an extra ½ inch of rain. If you have not had that rain, use a sprinkler to apply water.

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Mowing on a regular basis helps the lawn to stay thick. Bluegrass lawns prefer to be 3 inches long. Longer blades encourage deeper roots. Deeper roots are less likely to suffer from drought stress. Never remove more than 1/3 of the length of the blade in one cutting to keep the lawn stress free. Always use a lawn mower with sharp blades.

Grubs are the larva of two different beetles which eat the roots of grass plants causing damage to the lawn. Even worse, grubs are the food for wildlife like skunks and raccoons that will dig up the lawn. Use insecticides specific to grubs to prevent them. Apply early in the season to get the best control.

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Jennifer Brennan

Horticulture Information Specialist, advising and coaching gardeners at Chalet for over 30 years